Barbara Casasola is the shining star of Brazilian Fashion @ LFW

20 Feb, 2014

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By Kamilla Fernandes
Translated by Jessica Whitfield

London Fashion Week’s Autumn-Winter edition ran from 14-19 February. The event’s main stage was at Sommerset House, in London, with some catwalks and exhibitions in other locations, including the Brazilian Embassy. Brazilian stylists and designers marked their presence, showing their new collections to buyers, clients and journalists from all over the world. There were no new Brazilian names in the line-up this season. However, there was a greater national presence this year, in some subtle ways, such as the soundtrack to the Portuguese stylist Joao Melo Costa’s show. It included songs such as, “Balada do Louco” by the group Os Mutantes. Other Brazilian themes included the exhibition “Penta: Brazilian Fashion Exhibition” in the Brazilian Embassy on Trafalgar Square.

Penta: Brazilian Fashion Exhibition

The exhibition was curated by the stylist Barbara Casasola. It reunited the work of five Brazilian designers, three of which are already established in London: Lucas Nascimemnto, Fernando Jorge and the curator herself. The two emerging talents were Vitorino Campos and Guilhereme Vieira, from Clube Bossa.

Penta: Brazilian Fashion Exhibiton. Photo by Kamilla Fernandes

The installations were inspired by “Tropicália” Helio Oiticica’s work from 1967. According to Barbara, the exhibition’s focus was on how Brazil’s modernist inheritance is as inspiration and at the same time “an aesthetic language that can be described as minimalist, refined and sensual”.

The show was part of the “ International Fashion Showcase ”, a British Fashion Council project which aims to promote new talent in cultural spaces and embassies in London.

Autumn-Winter 2014 on the catwalk

In the accessories showroom at London Fashion Week , two jewellery designers, who were present last season, returned to show there new collections. They were Fernando Jorge and Amanda Gerbasi with their collection Kattri.

Kattri’s new collection is inspired by the Le Corbusier’s Purism movement, in which he used geometric elements like circles, arcs, rectangles, squares and straight lines. Beyond geometrics, the pieces also made use of contrasts, just like the architect did, mixing concrete with glass and water features in his buildings.

Two Brazilians are part of the NEWGEN programme, a Topshop initiative to find emerging talent in fashion. Their names are Luc as Nascimento and Paula Gerbase, their brand is 1205. As well as showing their new collections on the catwalk, the designers also had a look on exhibition in the NEWGEN showroom and a pop-up exhibition that showed their collection to a few visitors for a few hours only.

Lucas Nascimento, NEWGEN Topshop
Photo By Kamilla Fernandes

On the catwalk, Lucas Nascimento showed his collection inspired by the model Veruschka and nightlife of the 70s. His work stood out for its use of leather, crochet and pleated fabrics. The silhouettes were straight and long with shapes that varied from well fitted to loose and floating. The palette used green, grey, blue, maple black and yellow tones with a variety of gems. In general the collection was minimalist and the lengths of skirts and dresses varied from long, to midi to minis. The modes wore buttoned slippers. The pleated dresses and trousers are the collections must haves.

For 1205 Paula Gerbase showed a more sober collection with lots of blacks, grey and dark blue. In general the pieces were over-sized, creating large, loose silhouettes. The cropped trousers were the highlight, for men and for women, as well as the high boots and beautiful white shirts.

But there is no doubt that Brazil’s shining star last week was Barbara Casasola. The stylist’s collection was very elegant, with long, following lines but still sexy and provocative, with lots of transparent fabrics, cuts and deep necks and cropped midriff revealing tops.

The midi was her signature length, as well as high waists and abundant satin. The collection stood out for its combination of oversized coats and jumpsuits. Jumpsuits are Casasola’s signature look. Other strong points included the unstructured tailoring, flowing skirts which contrasted with the heavier cuts. The palette glowed with white, black, red, purple, varying tones of pale and rosy pink against lots of grey.

1205, NEWGEN Topshop
Photo by Kamilla Fernandes